The lehenga choli which is also known as ghagra choli is known for being one of the elegant Indian outfits worn by Indian women. From the 10th century, the fashion of lehenga has kept being evolving from being a simple skirt to heavily embellished attire. The lehenga dress has many intricate details like styles, fabrics, embroidery work, etc.
Origins and History
The lehenga choli originally was created in the today’s region called Rajasthan and Gujarat as a comfortable clothing for women because the weather in the Rajasthan and Gujarat areas were very hot. The choli provided modest coverage of the upper body. From the 16th century, the Mughal influence led to the embroidery and luxurious fabrics incorporated to give glamorous look to the lehengas. Nowadays, it comes in many different styles and patterns which has become a favourite among the women.
The Traditional Silhouette and Styling
The traditional Indian lehenga for women features a cropped blouse or choli, a fitted waistband and a flared ankle-length skirt. It is paired with dupatta which adds grace and covers the head and shoulders following the Indian traditions. Over the time, the choli started coming in many different styles like cuts with strings, halter necks, off-shoulder designs, etc. The lehenga skirt saw innovations like panels, gathers, pleats and layered designs. From simple cotton lehengas, the options now extend to opulent fabrics like silk, brocade, velvet and net.
Embroidery Styles
Intricate hand embroidery on the designer lehenga makes them as the standout Indian ethnic wear for women. Some popular embroidery techniques include zardozi, gota patti, phulkari, chikankari, zari, mirror work, thread work, sequins and bead work. Floral motifs, peacocks, paisley and geometric patterns adorn lehengas. The embroidery carries the essence of different states like Kashmiri, Lucknavi and Kutch work. Heavy bridal lehengas dazzle with their extensive embroidery covering the entire ghagra and blouse.
The beautiful lehengas come in many vibrant styles from different states of India. Each state has its own special way of making lehengas that show their culture. Rajasthani lehengas are very colorful, with beautiful mirror work and tie-dye bandhani prints. The Bandhani style uses bright pinks, reds, blues, yellows and greens in wave patterns on the fabric. Gujarati Gharchola lehengas also have bright bandhani designs. South Indian Kanjeevaram silk lehengas have heavy golden brocade work called zari on the silk. The gold threads shine brightly on the silk. Chettinad cotton lehengas have pretty prints and designs from Tamil Nadu. Chanderi and Maheshwari are two towns in Madhya Pradesh famous for their lightweight, soft silk lehengas. These lehengas have zari borders that add beauty. Banarasi silk and brocade lehengas are made in Banaras, Uttar Pradesh. They look grand, like what princesses would wear! Kerala Kasavu lehengas are made of handwoven cream or gold cotton fabric with red and golden brown stripes on the border. They represent the Kasavu sarees of Kerala. Maharashtrian Paithani silk lehengas have colorful peacock and floral designs done by hand. Paithani is a town in Maharashtra.
The designs and fabrics make each lehenga unique to its state. But they all bring out the wearer’s beauty through their colors, prints and textures. A lehenga can be a Bandhani from Gujarat, a Kanjeevaram from Tamil Nadu or a Paithani from Maharashtra. In each, the girl looks like a princess!
The regional lehengas are India’s textile heritage and a pretty dress for celebrations!