The lehenga choli is one of the most graceful and an elegant Indian attires. It has evolved over centuries from royal courts to the modern-day fashion world, always remaining an integral part of Indian ethnic wear for women.
The origins of the lehenga can be traced back to the 10th century. During this time, women in royal courts across North India wore long skirts called the lehnga or ghagra. These ankle-length skirts were paired with choli tops and odhnis (veils). The lehenga derived its name from the Sanskrit word “Langa Vasta” meaning a garment which hides the legs. In the Mughal era between the 16th-18th centuries, the lehenga underwent further modifications. Royal women wore embellished lehengas made of expensive fabrics like silk and brocade, with precious stones and gold zari work. These were either in bright colors or more muted pastels. The choli evolved into a cropped blouse with a front opening and sleeves.
During India’s freedom movement in the 19th-20th centuries, the Indian lehenga for women was regarded as too royal for the nationalistic fervor of the time. The sarees for women was promoted instead as daily wear. After Independence in 1947, the Indian lehenga made a strong comeback. Fashion designers started innovating contemporary lengha styles, moving away from traditional cuts and heavy materials. In the 1960s, Bollywood movie industry popularized the chiffon lehenga dresses. Choli or blouse designs also became more varied with halter necks and deep backs.
The 21st century has seen the rise of fusion lehenga designs for women. Contemporary Indian brides often wear lehenga designs with gown style skirts. Tube tops, off-shoulder and strapless cholis have become common too. Fashion designers today also experiment with unconventional fabrics like velvet, georgette, tissue, satin etc. Apart from the conventional red lehengas now come in mehendi green, purple, ivory, gold, orange, blue and other colors. Embellishments include sequins, beads, pearls, cutdana, pitta, and stones. There are luxurious lehengas with intricate zardozi, badla, mukaish, and chikankari work. Hand embroidery like Kashmiri, Chamba, Lucknavi, Kantha, Gota, Parsi, Mirror, Kutch, Phulkari remains a timeless classic.
From being a royal costume, the lehenga choli has now become a celebrated Indian bridal outfit. Its versatile design and style make it a favorite for festive and wedding wear. Mixing tradition with contemporary trends, the Indian lehenga for women continues to embrace modernity while retaining its cultural charm.
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